First mark out the area that you are going to lay paving slabs... 2. Surround the area with plastic or metal edging material to help prevent shifting. When laying, line up the edge of the paving so it is almost touching the string. Lower the slab onto the leveling sand and remove the SlabSetters tool. Some equipment is essential and some is optional but useful. The base of your paver shed foundation is gravel. There are two acceptable methods of laying flags - individual bedded and screed bedded. To help you get this perfect paving spacers are a great idea. This needs to be done with a wacker plate which you can rent cheaply from a plant hire company. The last thing you want is a nice new patio that gets flooded every time it rains. Lay the paving slabs on a full mortar bed, which should support the whole slab, not just the corners Use a mortar mix of 6 parts sharp sand to 1 part cement Mix together with just enough water to make it … 10. Begin by only mixing up enough cement for one slab, this way if you mix up too little or too much you’ll know how much to prepare for the next one, plus it’s always best not to mix up too much cement at one time as it doesn’t take long to solidify – if you’ve got a lot of wet cement lying around it puts a lot of pressure on you to use it quickly! Step 2: Building the base. Once you have finished laying the remaining stepping-stones between the two end slabs you can them remove the string line and pins and then gently replace any gravel around the slabs. To get the correct slope for water to run off (described above) use a spirit level on the sloped string line and observe the position of the bubble. See HSE advice on working with concrete here. The ground below the slab should then be marked, wet, and compressed to make it firm. These kits come with stakes that will hold the edge in place against the slabs. The process Step 1: Preparation. Laying paving is definitely not for everyone. eval(ez_write_tag([[728,90],'lawnmowerwizard_com-box-4','ezslot_11',119,'0','0'])); With your cement mixture prepared, carefully pour it into the hole and use either a stick or cement trowel to evenly spread it level, again making sure that it only fills the hole half way so that the slab will sit flush with the ground once positioned on top of it. This means that water will pool on the surface. Paving needs to sit on a hard well drained Foundation. To stop this happening a patio needs to have a slight gradient (usually too small to see) going away from the house. Pointing was traditionally done by pushing concrete into the gaps between paving slabs then cleaning off the excess. You should make out the area using some spray the edge of a spade or whatever works on the surface you are working with. Add a layer of hardcore 50mm to 80mm deep and smooth out the surface to remove any bumps before adding bedding mortar. Take a brush and dampen the underneath of your slab with water before you lay the slab onto the slab-layer. If you are laying to a pattern ensure you know which paving slabs are going where before you start. Follow the guidance of the equipment leaser or manufacturer on using this machine safely. The cement does not need to be level. Mark out the patio area to be laid with paving slabs. Before you begin to lay the paving you need a reference point to get the surface of the paving at the correct height. Buying a Second-Hand Ride-on Lawn Mower or Garden Tractor, 600mm x 600mm slabs – these range from between £5 and £25 depending on their quality and appearance, Cement – approximately one 25kg bag per every 6 slabs, Builders sand or ‘sharp’ sand – approximately 1 bag per slab, Cement mixer (can be rented fairly inexpensively), Alternatively you can get away with not using a cement mixer by using ‘Ready Mix’ cement which already has sand mixed in with it, you’ll obviously still need a plastic container to stir water into the cement mix, Mallet -a rubber headed type is best as this avoids damaging or breaking the slabs, Piece of wood the same depth as the paving slabs, Angle Grinder with masonry cutting disc should you need to cut the slabs. Choose one fixed edge and a corner to use as the orientation for the paving. These days I have truly mixed feelings about petrol powered tools. If your clothing gets covered in wet or dry cement, make sure to wash it off as soon as possible. The base of your prepared area should be at least 150 mm plus the depth of the slab below that. Adding radiant heat, extra dirt work, or grading to the sub-base costs extra. Next you should carefully position the slab on top of the wet cement, bearing in mind that slabs are heavy, so if at all possible you should have someone to assist you at this point, both to spread the weight and to ensure that the slab is positioned correctly.eval(ez_write_tag([[250,250],'lawnmowerwizard_com-large-leaderboard-2','ezslot_8',126,'0','0']));eval(ez_write_tag([[250,250],'lawnmowerwizard_com-large-leaderboard-2','ezslot_9',126,'0','1'])); With the slab in place use the mallet to gently tap the slab in the corners if they are protruding above the height of the ground, this will disperse the cement below, and you might find that it seeps out from the gap at the edge of the slab in the process, if it does just be on hand with the trowel to scrape it clear. 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